|Weight (gsm)||Sizes||Color Palette||Texture||Aging|
|110gsm, 190gsm||A4; 70cm by 100cm||7 colors||smooth||many years|
|Wear and Tear||Memory||Forgiveness||Tensile Strength||Bending Restistance|
|n/a||10 / 10||7 / 10||10 / 10||10 / 10|
|8.5 / 10||9 / 10||10 / 10||8 / 10||8.5 / 10||9.5 / 10||9.5 / 10|
Made in Germany, by Zanders (http://www.zanders.com/), it may be crowned as King of Paper. I tried to get some information on the process and ingredients of this paper, but this is privileged information and won't be shared by the manufacturer. Its Data Sheet says "Elephant hide is a rugged bookbinding paper with a parchment grain which can be used as a book covering paper or for making certificates. It is impregnated and therefore scratch and abrasion resistant, dirt repellent, can be wiped clean (wet-strength paper), has limited expansion and shrinkage and is not sensitive to acid. In addition, it is tear resistant and wrinkle and fold resistant as well as color-fast and lightfast." Can we ask for more? It got the FSC certificate, so you are helping to save forests by buying it. More than that, each sheet is unique, no two sheets are alike.
Discovered by origamists, it became very popular among them. Here are the reasons:
The Crane from a 15X15 cm square. It was fun to fold. The weight of the paper requires accurate fold, otherwise the beak is not sharp as it should.
This paper gave me the best result I (Gadi) ever got with this model. I refold it several times, gave it to my 4 years kid, and it still moves very easily. The only complaint against this paper is the colors. With this "both sides same color" paper, I had to paint the paper to get different color for the nose.
I also tried the traditional flapping bird. It is the best paper for this model! It's easy to fold the bird and it will flap perfectly. Both wings move evenly, and there's no chance of tearing the lower part of the wings, especially in the first couple of strokes. The paper will not tear even if I pull it intensely.
I got the best results with the frog. I used a 15cm square and folded it in half. Then I folded a waterbomb base for the head. The Flex is amazing! I measured a few jumps, most are around 60 to 80cm and once I crossed the 1m mark!
This paper is very smooth. The cube breaks into pieces too easily. A modular folded from this paper, must have good lock between the units or a very tight pocket.
For wet folding, I wet a 20cm square and got a small effect on the proportions. Nevertheless the Fox Terrier didn’t suffer from it too much. At the end the model was nice and stable. The paper holds the exact amount of water I needed. I didn't have to re-wet it in the middle of the folding, and didn’t need to wait for it to get dry at the end.
The Rat mixed straight lines with curved model. In this section the focus is on the 3D and curves. To shape the tail I (Gadi) tied it in a wet rag and let it dry curved. The result was nice curved tail. The ears shaped easily by pinching them in the center. Here the strength of the paper was an advantage. It helped to make it rounded.
This paper is made for tessellators. Folding the grid makes a very accurate one, although the paper is a bit hard to fold in perpendicular to the fibers. Reversing a fold [I (Ilan) make my grid by matching every two adjacent creases to create the fold between them, which needs a lot of reversing the folds] is quite easy, and the paper tends to "break" on the right place with a bit of pressure. Pre folding is very clean, where short fold lines do not affect the surrounding surface, so the final result is uncontaminated. Strength is another strong point, no tearing or weakening points, no fibers are showing in the corners.
For the Mystery model, with the light brown, the back light made a great effect. (See a picture in the Texture section above.)
The pre-crease was excellent. The final steps hardly folded. The final model was so wide that it couldn’t stand on three legs as it should. I put the poor Pegasus into a clamp for a night and closed it very tight. This paper is not willing to torn! After the night it could stand on three legs. Although the folds hold very good and the final model look nice, I strongly recommend using thinner paper for complex models.
In clamp: http://www.flickr.com/photos/garibiilan/5200985031/in/photostream/
In tight clamp: http://www.flickr.com/photos/garibiilan/5201577218/in/photostream/
(no real Pegasus where hurt in this fold)
Being the inexperienced one with complex models, I (Ilan) happily choose the biggest size. Even so, it was a fight! The paper is too thick for this model, even at an almost double size than recommended. I couldn't fold the last stages, finalizing the small details, or even to bend the front leg, as shown in stage 92. The body is fat, maybe too fat, and some glue is needed to hold it together. Nevertheless, the final result is beautiful. The Pegasus stand still, wings held up high, in a majestic pose.
What is it good for? For traditional use, it seems a bit of a blasphemy. For tessellations it is no less than perfect, as for 3D models, wet folded or not. With complex model you should not consider EH as your first choice, and if you do, prepare for a struggle, with an amazing possible result. If you have the time and patience for cutting your paper for Modular Origami, EH is great, with a very strong and stable result but not for models that are connected based on friction! This paper is the best for action models – strong, hold the creases nicely, and it is not going to torn even in small kid hands (tested on Gadi's 4 years old boy).
Beginner shouldn't use this paper – It is too heavy.
Going through Flickr search engine after EH images, the vast majority (90%) is tessellations. The other 10% are masks and 3D animals, mostly high to intermediate level (and the common one is, no surprise here, elephant!). In 749 images there are less than 10 images of complex models.
Bottom line: Must buy and experience. Full satisfaction guarantee!
Special thanks to Herman Mariano for his colorability section.
as selected by Sara Adams